The only imperative on the island is the beach.
Kauai, the oldest of the main Hawaiian islands, is a procrastinators' paradise. The islanders do not subscribe to the pace of mainland society. When the surf is good, it is not unusual for people who own businesses to lock the door and put a "gone surfing" sign in the window.
The mellowness is contagious. In the month we were there, my wife and I never had a quarrel. We didn't rush to get anywhere on time, and indeed, nothing started on time.
We were 10 minutes late for the Wailua River Boat Tour to the Fern Grotto and found the boat still tied to the dock, with the crew amiably chatting with the other tourists who had arrived on time. No one demanded an explanation for our late arrival; they just smiled and said, "Aloha. Welcome aboard."
We were late because of the slow traffic on the two-lane road that runs through Kapaa. The locals are so unhurried that they frequently stop their cars if pedestrians even look as if they might want to cross the street. Likewise, if cars are waiting to enter the traffic from a side street, drivers will stop and wave them on.
Besides all this time-consuming politeness, the alternate route (which would have siphoned off half of the local traffic) was closed for construction. This road project (which in Boston might have taken a day or two to complete) had been dragging on for weeks.
I don't think Hawaiians have a word for "punctuality" or "hurry." My favorite watering hole defined "happy hour" as noon to 6 p.m. Even at the airport in Lihue, when I complained that our flight was not listed on the electronic display, one of the agents said, "Don't pay any attention to that; they never get around to updating those lists."
We found that the food was good and the service efficient at the nearby Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club restaurant. Unlike some other places, the staff had been trained to come to your table soon after you were seated and to show some interest in your having a pleasant experience. During the first weeks of our vacation we went back several times.
But as we became more acclimated to the pace of island life, we were much more comfortable at the places the locals enjoyed, where no one was hurrying around, and you could sit and linger over your hula pie while enjoying the fabulous ocean view.
So, I tell my daughter to stop asking me when I will be getting around to my report on the trip. It may take a few more days. . . . Like I say, I'm still on Hawaiian time.
Dennis E. Noonan can be reached at denoonan@verizon.net.
