Gooey baked chocolate treats that conjure childhood

May 28, 2008

In this season of picnics and potlucks, brownie mixes are flying off supermarket shelves. Ten happy chocoholics tasted six brownie mixes - from the load 'em up with butter and eggs brand to a vegan version that was mighty Spartan. "A brownie is a brownie!" exclaimed one taster - until she had the gamut under her belt.

We made each brand in a disposable foil pan, covered them with foil when they were cool, and tasted them the following day (most home cooks are baking at night for a party the next day). We followed the instructions on the packages. Most brands needed extra baking time; we weren't serving hot fudge.

America's composite mom, Betty Crocker, took top honors. The fudge brownie mix was praised by many. Pulling up as a close second was another icon, that chubby little dough boy from Pillsbury. Most of the tasters couldn't choose between the two. People liked the shiny crackly tops and the soft fudgy interiors that both brands produce and that many tasters grew up on.

With its hard crusty tops and chewy insides, squares of Trader Joe's Brownie Truffle mix showed well. The brand contains chocolate chips (they had bloomed, which means they had been sitting around and formed white exteriors). A New England brand, Village Mixes Ann's Best Ever Brownie Mix, made in New Hampshire, was good and gooey, but so sugary it produced little crystals in the squares. "It feels like sweet sand in my mouth," someone said.

All tasters disapproved of Goodbaker Chocolate Fudge Brownie Mix, the vegan brand, which is made in Somerville. The color was dark, the texture woefully crumbly. "Just eat an apple and don't bother with this," announced one. Whole Foods Market 365 brand didn't fare much better; the color was anemic.

Tasters wandered off mostly satisfied, some looking for a glass of milk and their blankies. - DEBRA SAMUELS

Betty Crocker Fudge Brownies
$1.79 for 1-pound-2.3-ounce box
"These say brownies!" was the mantra, with other praise: "Smells good, looks nice and moist, and tastes great! I could eat the entire pan," gushed one. "Smooth and light feeling on the tongue - I hate to sound like a cliché, but it really does melt in your mouth. But it does taste a little like a sugar substitute aftertaste - very slight though." "Mm, nice chocolate-y smell with a glossy top crust." "Smell doesn't match up entirely with flavor, which is more nutty than rich and fudgy."

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