Stellar fare lives up to lofty tab

The Black Orchid feels warm and private despite large windows facing out onto a lightly trafficked side street in downtown Nashua. Softly lit and richly painted, with Parisian and art nouveau touches, the restaurant immediately embraces patrons. The small, low-key bar is nicely integrated: unobtrusive but lending a pleasant buzz to the atmosphere.

Diners are greeted at their tables by small round loaves of crusty fresh bread, accompanied by olive oil spiked with black pepper and herbs. Chilled water arrives in carafes, a nice touch. It's a very promising start, and the courses that follow almost uniformly live up to that promise.

I found it very difficult to choose from among a half-dozen innovative appetizers. The asparagus ravioli ($8) and roasted scallops with artichoke hearts topped with lemon yogurt sauce ($10) both beckoned, but I opted for the saffron risotto fritters ($7).

It was an excellent choice: Calling to mind arancini, an addictive Italian rice-ball delicacy, the fritters boasted a crispy crust around insides creamy with Asiago and Parmesan cheeses. Served with a roasted tomato cream sauce that begged to be licked off the plate, this appetizer alone could have made my night.

The entrees I sampled rivaled the splendor of the risotto fritters. Perhaps most delightful was the eggplant napoleon ($16). The shining star of this ample dish was the thin-sliced eggplant, pan fried to a remarkable degree of crispness without growing oily. Layered with buffalo (milk) mozzarella, fresh basil, ricotta, and chunky tomato sauce, this dish received a full round of thumbs-ups at our table.

Also on the pasta portion of the menu was chicken basilico ($19), ziti tossed with tender chicken medallions, artichoke hearts, and sun-dried tomatoes in a tasty basil cream. The dish proved every bit as hearty and flavorful as it sounds.

The Parmesan-encrusted haddock and scallops ($25), a signature dish, was rich and thoroughly delicious. Rubbed with sour cream and sprinkled with cheese, the fish was moist and beautifully cooked. My only quibble was that the portion was rather small.