Seared baby artichokes

May 07, 2008

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Baby artichokes grace us for a short time each year. So when shoppers see them in the markets now, why aren't they fighting for these prickly, green-leafed rounds? Because they're intimidating and time consuming. Like shell beans and Brussels sprouts, artichokes require a bit of prep work. You have to cut off the tops (this isn't especially demanding), then pull away the thistle leaves (a chore). But once you get going, the task is quite simple and can even be therapeutic. When you work with large, full-grown, grapefruit-size artichokes - also seen now - you have to remove the fuzzy choke above the heart. Tender baby artichokes, which are the size of lemons, are completely edible. Boil them ahead of time and then just before serving, sear the blanched artichokes. To make an Italian-style version, cook the baby artichokes in a quart of 230-degree vegetable oil for 2 minutes. Let them cool and then deep-fry them in the same oil (the second time it should be 375 degrees) until crisp and golden brown. Sprinkle with coarse salt.

Salt, to taste 1 lemon, halved 6 baby artichokes 2 tablespoons olive oil 1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add enough salt so it tastes salty.

2. In a large bowl of cold water, squeeze the juice of one lemon half. Cut the remaining half into segments.

3. Cut off the pointy third of one artichoke. Pull back and remove the green leaves until you reach the tender yellow leaves. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the skin off the stem and smooth the area where the leaves were. Quarter the artichokes through the stem. Immediately drop them into the lemon water. Repeat with remaining artichokes.

4. Fill a large bowl with ice and water. Line a large plate with paper towels.

5. Drain the artichokes and drop them into the boiling water. Cook for 1 1/2 minutes. With a large slotted spoon, transfer them to the ice water. When they are cool, drain them and pat them dry.

6. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When it is hot, sear the artichokes cut-sides down for 2 minutes or until they are golden, covering the skillet with a splatter guard if you have one. Turn and sear the other cut sides for 2 minutes more. Sear the rounded sides for 2 minutes or until golden (total cooking time is about 6 minutes). Transfer to the paper towels. Sprinkle with salt, toss gently, and serve with lemon wedges. - Jill Santopietro