NO matter where you are in Rome there is probably a house museum around the corner if not right in front of you. The popes were not alone in thinking that the rooms, hallways and loggias of their stately residences ought to be overscaled and highly decorated, with frescoed ceilings, gilt-framed paintings and gleaming marble Greek gods and goddesses propped in every corner. Popes had nephews who also used their digs for personal art collections; so did several centuries worth of cardinals, wealthy nobles, queens in exile, art-loving French imperialists and Romantic-leaning English poets, as well as painters, sculptors and other artists from around the globe. Collectively, they left behind a wealth of treasure palaces and curious cubby holes displaying something for every taste.
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