Despite Cayo Costa's strong cellphone signal, this is not a place where staying wired is appreciated. The vast majority of overnight and day visitors (50,400 last year) come to this mile-long, 7 1/2-mile-wide piece of paradise west of North Fort Myers to swim, fish, kayak, beach comb, walk, bicycle, bird watch, and watch the sunset. Some of the 30 tent-only campsites are just across the dunes from the Gulf of Mexico, while others are 50 yards farther inland, away from the wind. There are also 12 cabins, nothing more than wooden tents with bunk beds. Wherever you rest your head, a symphony of breaking waves will reach your ears, accompanied by the cries of egrets, ibis, osprey, pelicans, and seagulls.
The only electricity is generated by a couple of car batteries that power tiny beams of light in the bathroom. During our two-night stay, a full moon made flashlights all but unnecessary. The park does have drinking water, flush toilets, and several places outside to take a cold shower. Alcohol is allowed at campsites, though not on the beach.
The only provisions sold at the tiny air-conditioned park office a mile away are bug spray, sunscreen, and, surprisingly, ice. "We generate our own power and have our own water plant," said Herb Benecke, a ranger who came to Cayo Costa State Park almost two years ago with his wife, Bess, after spending more than 30 years in and around Bangor, Maine.
While civilization feels far away, it's not. From the beach and various parts of the island, you can see populated Boca Grande on the bridged island of Gasparilla.
If someone were to pack up your things, transport them, and set up camp for you, camping here would be a totally relaxing experience (unless you're the type who must have a warm shower). The reality is that to get here, there's a lot of arranging and schlepping to do before you can relax.
