Life on the river blends old and new in hip little Hudson

January 27, 2008|Necee Regis, Globe Correspondent

HUDSON - The numbers tell the story: Along this one-mile stretch of Warren Street there are 65 antique dealers, 28 restaurants and cafes, 27 gallery and exhibition spaces, 15 architectural styles, plus gift shops, clothing boutiques, houseware emporiums, thrift shops, junk shops, convenience stores, bookstores, and one vacuum cleaner retailer. Add it all up and you have a good idea of what you'll find on a visit to Hudson.

Warren wasn't always such a bustling street. Not since, say, the 1880s when cotton and knitting mills, brickyards, breweries, and ironworks helped make Hudson's port second only to New York's (125 miles downriver) in trade volume.

"When I arrived there were only 12 other antique shops in town. Everything else on this block was closed except the Chinese restaurant," said Tim Doyle, owner of Doyle Antiques. When he moved from Albany 17 years ago, Doyle and his fellow merchants decorated empty storefronts to make the street seem less abandoned. They don't have to worry about that now.

"When I came here the sidewalks were busted. Now the streets are repaved. I think of Hudson as a convergence center for like-minded people," said Tim Dunleavy, president of the board of Historic Hudson, which promotes the preservation of the city's architectural heritage.

In the waning light of a fall afternoon, Dunleavy was sitting in his shop, Rural Residence, a home store with a 19th-century aesthetic. "The architecture is what draws people to Hudson," he said.

Hudson's long and vibrant history, including economic booms and busts, is reflected in its architecture, which many credit as the force behind its revitalization. Founded in 1783 by New England merchants, Hudson was the third city to be chartered in New York state and the first chartered after the Declaration of Independence.

Walking from the Hudson River up Warren and adjacent streets, one strolls past examples of what's been called a "dictionary of American architectural design." Starting with Nantucket-style saltboxes, one also sees Federal, Greek, Gothic and Egyptian revivals, Italian Villa and Italianate, Second Empire, Stick, Queen Anne, Richardsonian Romanesque, Colonial Revival, Beaux Arts, and last but not least, Arts and Crafts brick homes from the early 20th century.

"Hudson is a great year-round destination. It was economically down for a couple of decades but now its buildings are being restored," said Chris Wagoner.

Wagoner speaks from experience. A music video producer for 20 years, he bought an 1830 Greek Revival home and opened the Union Street Guest House. It has no common areas but offers self-contained suites, all meticulously restored with art, fine furnishings, and kitchenettes.

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