Decades pass but not the welcome at N.H. inn

January 20, 2008|Checking In, Sacha Pfeiffer, Globe Staff

LINCOLN, N.H. - About a decade ago, on a weekend hiking trip, I spent the night at a sweet little bed-and-breakfast in this White Mountain town. It was called the Red Sleigh Inn, and years later the stay lingered happily in my mind. I remembered Loretta, the high-spirited innkeeper who chattered with abandon. I remembered our snug attic bedroom with sloping eaves. I remembered the bounteous blueberry pancakes drenched in thick maple syrup.

Last fall, planning a New Hampshire hiking weekend, I wondered, was the Red Sleigh still around? Trusty Google confirmed that it was. And, to my surprise, its website showed that innkeepers Loretta and Bill Deppe were still in charge. Curious to see how the place had changed, I booked a room.

All these years later, Lincoln's only B&B is as homey and inviting as ever. On a residential street within walking distance of the town's main shopping and dining drag, the Kancamagus Scenic Byway, the Red Sleigh Inn is a cozier alternative to the motels, hotels, ski resorts, and condo rentals that dominate the lodging scene here.

Since our last visit, the inn had been gorgeously landscaped, and beds of wildflowers cover much of what used to be lawn. In season, the yard is ablaze with coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, Oriental lilies, and blazing stars, a colorful explosion of reds, oranges, blues, yellows, pinks, and purples that attracts swarms of hummingbirds and monarch butterflies. Ever generous, the Deppes will urge you to take home an armful of clippings if they notice you admiring a certain flower.

As for Bill and Loretta, they looked older and seemed a touch more tired - the round-the-clock, customer-service life of running a B&B will do that - but she is still vivacious and voluble, and he remains the low-key counterpart to her high-energy personality. They've run the inn since 1987 and live on its first floor. The six guest rooms are scattered throughout the house: one on the first floor, three on the second, and two in the finished attic.

The rooms have a wide range of bed sizes, from twin to king, and some have shared rather than private bathrooms. The first-floor Rose Room even has a two-person Jacuzzi. Some rooms are carpeted, some have hardwood floors, and most have color themes (the blue room, yellow, green, etc.). The furnishings and decor have a country-casual look, with printed wallpaper, floral comforters, and lacy curtains.

The decor leans toward the cutesy, like stuffed bears and trinkety ceramics. But each room offers privacy and comfort, and a small hallway refrigerator is stocked with complimentary beverages.

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