In his 1951 classic, "The Log From the Sea of Cortez," John Steinbeck noted that "one thing had impressed us deeply on this lit- tle voyage: the great world dropped away very quickly." Not much has changed since Steinbeck was here. This place is remote. Lindblad Expeditions has been leading trips around the world since 1979 and in Baja for more than 20 years. In 2004 they joined forces with National Geographic. This is the first Baja trip of the season - before the migration of the friendly gray whales and after the storms of summer.
Lindblad does not offer the opulent ocean-liner experience. It's less like the Love Boat and more like "The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou." There are no hot tubs or on-deck swimming pools, no ice sculptures on the buffet table, and no extravagant after-dinner entertainment. It is luxury enough just to be in this place.
On the boat
The Sea Bird is a 154-foot steel-hulled monster built on Whidbey Island, Wash., in the early 1980s. The crew sleeps in the windowless hull, the guests on three levels, with the larger and more expensive rooms higher up.
My tiny room is on the starboard side of the boat with a large picture window about 6 feet off the surface of the water. In front of the window are two very small beds with pilly but soft white sheets and wool comforters. There is a brass bedside lamp to read by and two photos on the wall, one of a sea turtle swimming, the other of frigate birds swooping around at dusk. The head has a brown toilet, a sink, and a hand-held shower with plenty of pressure and endless hot water. The floor is drained and has a bamboo platform to stand on. Biodegradable products from Kiss My Face and Tom's of Maine are provided. Seawater is filtered through the pipes and spooky green phosphorescence shines when you flush the toilet.
