Top-flight meals, to go

January 09, 2008|Michelle Higgins, New York Times News Service

Airline food has gotten so bad that Padma Lakshmi, cookbook author and host of "Top Chef" on Bravo, often heads to the airport with a container full of spinach leaves and leftovers like grilled chicken, along with a separate container of dressing. Once on the plane, "I put it together and shake it up," she said.

And Nina Zagat, cofounder of the Zagat restaurant survey, travels with her own pepper mill and the fixings for an elegant sandwich. "I usually bring the best smoked salmon I can find and very thinly sliced whole-grain bread, and I put that together on the flight," she said.

For travelers who don't want to make their own meals, a host of new dining choices at America's airports now offers an alternative to dried-out turkey sandwiches or unappetizing snack boxes.

With hot meals in coach virtually gone, airport terminals are filling the void (and tapping a captive market) by presenting better and healthier food choices, often with takeout services.

Instead of outlets of McDonald's, Panda Express, and other fast-food standards, airports are now offering organic salads, local barbecue chicken, and even small bottles of chilled wine that passengers can bring onboard (although Federal Aviation Administration rules technically forbid the consumption of alcohol not served by the airline).

At the Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, travelers can browse an 8-foot-long refrigerated counter full of pre-made sandwiches, salads, waters, and juices at the SweetWater Draft House, an outpost of a local microbrewery. Philadelphia International Airport has Chickie's & Pete's, a local sports bar chain known for its crab fries. Cibo Express Gourmet Market, which offers a wide array of pre-made sandwiches, salads, and specialty foods, made its debut at Kennedy Airport in New York five years ago and has since expanded to airports in Philadelphia, Washington, Boston, and Tucson.

Some of the new takeout options are decidedly upscale. At Terminal 2 at Kennedy, specialty grocer Balducci's opened a 700-square-foot shop in concert with Delta, serving tuna niçoise salads and chipotle lime-marinated grilled chicken sandwiches. Vino Volo, a wine bar and lounge that opened in 2005 at Washington Dulles International Airport, has been rapidly expanding to other airports, allowing coach passengers to cobble together meals that would make business-class passengers envious. On its menu: small plates like duck confit or smoked salmon rolls (about $8 to $11). At some airports, Vino Volo even has a cold takeout case stocked with half and full bottles of pinot grigio and chardonnay.

Advertisement
Advertisement
|
|
|
|