Bowled Over

Stick-to-your-ribs whole-wheat pasta calls for a flavor-packed sauce.

January 06, 2008|Adam Ried

Have you noticed the landslide of new whole-wheat pasta? Suddenly, it's everywhere. But you don't want to pair it with just any sauce. Whole-wheat pasta has a full flavor that can easily overwhelm delicate sauces based on herbs or cream, but it matches well with assertive garlic, tomatoes, capers, and tangy cheese, as well as with hearty cabbage and sausage.

When it first became available, whole-wheat pasta was generally just that - made from 100 percent whole durum wheat, full of fiber and nutrient-packed bran and germ. Unfortunately, using the whole grain gave the pasta a coarse, heavy, often gummy texture. Today's whole-wheat pasta has been improved considerably by manufacturers blending whole durum and more highly refined semolina flours. These new blended-wheat pastas offer superior nutrition compared with semolina-only pasta, plus a smooth texture and a full, appealing flavor.

WHOLE-WHEAT PASTA WITH ROASTED TOMATOES, FRIED CAPERS, AND MANCHEGO
SERVES 4 TO 6

3 pints cherry tomatoes, halved lengthwise
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste, plus 1 tablespoon
2 teaspoons sugar, or more to taste
4 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/4 cup capers, drained and dried on paper towels
13 1/4 ounces (1 box) whole-wheat penne or other short, tubular whole-wheat pasta
1/2 teaspoon pepper, or more to taste
4 ounces manchego cheese, shaved into thin ribbons with a vegetable peeler
6 tablespoons chopped parsley

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil. In a medium bowl, gently toss the cherry tomatoes, onion, 5 tablespoons of oil, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, the sugar, and garlic. Spread the tomato mixture in a single even layer on the prepared baking sheet and roast, without stirring, until the tomato skins shrivel slightly (tomatoes should retain their shape) and the onion slices soften and turn golden, about 35 minutes. Remove the tomato mixture from the oven and cool it for about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil until shimmering. Add the capers and fry, stirring occasionally, until they become crisp and dark, about 5 minutes. Drain the fried capers on paper towels and set aside.

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