The camp, part of an eco-farm, is a sprawling, hilly compound with a few tent sites and several screened-in platform dwellings, a bathhouse with solar hot water, and an open pavilion. We and other independent-minded campers gathered there at night to cook and share the day's adventures - not to mention whatever wine or rum we had brought.
"Something I love being part of is the ever-changing community atmosphere that is created here, week to week," said Eric Paxton Stauder, camp manager. "People meet and form lifelong friendships through sharing meals, drinks, and stories by the campfire.
"In any given week we host a blend of local islanders and visitors from all over North America and Europe," he said. The camp "has a way of attracting really friendly and interesting people, people that seem to truly care about their world and the people they share it with."
Of course, Mount Victory is not for everyone - but that is part of its allure. Chickens and roosters strut the property; the solar showers can be more invigorating than anticipated on a cloudy day; and if a guest should forget to close the gate after driving into the camp, the neighbors' cattle are likely to wander in.
Driving, especially on the narrow, vine-strung, and pocked road leading into the camp, is an adventure, as "Crucians" drive on the left and some side roads are barely wide enough for two cars.
But these are small matters compared with the joys of discovering St. Croix: the forested hills, clifftop panoramas, plantation ruins, coral reefs, funky beach bars, and laid-back lifestyle that turns more than a few visitors into residents.
We spent the first seven of our nine nights at Mount Victory in a tent we brought from home and made day trips to hike, kayak, snorkel, swim, and visit museums and gardens.
