Feeding the experience

From Pernod confit to crispy wonton strips, area museums work to curate menus that fuel their visitors' passions

November 11, 2007|Necee Regis, Globe Correspondent

Here's what they don't teach you in Art Appreciation 101: It makes you hungry. Whether contemplating Degas or Dalí or even dinosaurs, after an hour or two of mental and physical exertion, a museumgoer needs time to rest and refuel before setting off to another exhibition.

In the past, restaurants in Boston museums - if they had them at all - were modest cafeterias where you could expect to find a bagel or maybe an egg salad sandwich and a cup of coffee served with prepackaged cookies.

Today, as attendance has grown and museums have become more marketing-savvy, dining possibilities have expanded. Cafeteria-style venues still exist but now offer salad bars, healthy wraps, and stations with easy hot meals like pizza or pasta at affordable prices. At the higher end, one can dine on gazpacho, Caprese salad, or even soy-glazed scallops with vanilla pickled mango, washed down with a glass of Alsatian pinot gris or a decaf latte.

So take your pick. From fine dining to a quick and healthy snack one thing is certain: You can leave your brown bag lunch at home now; museums are feeding body and soul.

The Museum of Fine Arts offers three options that cater to varied schedules and budgets.

For unhurried fine dining head to Bravo. Located on the upper level of the West Wing this restaurant is a soothing and stylish retreat from the masses. The decor is both contemporary and welcoming, with bright orange accents scattered amidst subdued grays, browns, and warm wood tones.

"We want to be a restaurant in a museum, not a museum restaurant. People are pleasantly surprised when they come to see a show and find us," said Jacqueline Kelly, executive chef.

The small but eclectic menu focuses on seasonal ingredients from local purveyors, including sustainable seafood and meats and greens from nearby farms. A summer selection featured grilled asparagus salad with quail egg and black truffle vinaigrette, Hawaiian amberjack with Pernod fennel confit, and roasted Berkshire pork with heirloom beans.

"The Modern raised the bar," Kelly said, referring to the Museum of Modern Art in New York. "Everyone wants to be at that level."

The Galleria Café, adjacent to the bookstore on the first floor, offers lighter fare, such as soup, creative salads, panini, and decadent desserts, in a casual setting.

"We try our best to theme menus according to the current show," said Tony Cassesse, the restaurant manager. The current Napoleon exhibit has a French bistro theme.

At the newly-added bar, Maureen McQuillen and Lina Baldassarre were enjoying lunch with a glass of wine.

"The nice thing about museums these days is that they've brought up the quality of the food. It's more bistro-style. Though I would add champagne to the menu," said McQuillen.

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