The exterior of the whimsical lodging is a facade depicting a traditional 19th-century New England village, with a barber shop, post office, bank, and train station.
Rooms on the back of the inn have terrific mountain views. Brightly colored Adirondack chairs beckon, and through coin-operated binocular stands in the yard, it's possible to see rock climbers clambering up Cathedral Ledge.
We stayed in the Victorian Spa, a large, extravagantly decorated room with gleaming mahogany, rich fabrics, marble-topped side tables, and leaded glass lamps in vibrant colors. Our comfortable, king-size, four-poster bed was awash in burgundy swags, beige lace valances, a crocheted coverlet, and an armada of accent pillows. Providing a nod to the 21st century were a 44-inch plasma TV, a gas fireplace, and a wine cooler beneath the curved bar.
After years of snickering about heart-shaped tubs, the signature feature of passé Poconos resorts, we made a startling discovery: Heart-shaped tubs are really comfortable, since they allow two people to sit side by side and stretch their legs to the other end. Our deep red tub with ornate gold-tone faucets and leaded glass windows above had underwater lights and powerful jets that got right to the heart of tired or sore muscles.
The bath featured a two-person steam shower in black and gray marble and a sauna.
Walls and ceiling were decorative brick, and the toilet had a wooden tank above, with an old-fashioned pull chain.