It takes 3 villages

Variety of activity and commerce envelop historic town

June 13, 2007|Ellen Albanese, Globe Staff

Designated one of the best small towns in America, Essex is three distinct villages. Villages are demographic rather than political entities, built around a geographic or economic commonality, said Don Malcarne, a lifelong resident and town historian. While under the same municipal government, Essex, Centerbrook, and Ivoryton each has a post office and ZIP code and a Main Street. Centerbrook drew the earliest settlers, in the late 1600s, when the area was called Potapoug. When the shipbuilding era dawned, the focus shifted to Essex Village, with its easy access to the Connecticut River. The Industrial Revolution and the Victorian era boosted the fortunes of Ivoryton, the home of Comstock, Cheney & Co., one of the country's preeminent manufacturers of ivory piano keys, billiard balls, combs, knitting needles, and toothpicks. Today Centerbrook is the town's commercial center with banks, shops, and light industry. Essex Village draws the most visitors, with its historic houses, shops, and the Connecticut River Museum . Ivoryton boasts summer theater at the Ivoryton Playhouse, formerly a social hall.

Do

An Essex Historical Society (essexhistory.org) brochure maps a self-guided tour along Main Street, describing the historic homes and other buildings. You can download it from the website or pick one up for $1 at the Connecticut River Museum, the Griswold Inn, or the Pratt House Museum.

The Pratt House Museum (19 West Ave., 860-767-0681, essexhistory.org, weekends 1-4 p.m. June through September, free admission) shows how a prominent 18th-century Essex family lived. Seven generations of the Pratt family lived here from 1701 until 1915, and exhibits show how Essex changed from an agrarian society to one in which the building of sailing ships and commerce dominated.

Departing from the steamboat dock at the foot of Main Street, Riverquest (67 Main St., 860-662-0577, ctriverexpeditions.org) offers daytime and sunset cruises, as well as cruises to spot eagles and seals. Daytime trips cruise Essex Harbor and the lower Connecticut River, offering a good view of Gillette Castle. The two-hour sunset cruise is for adults only and participants are welcome to bring a picnic basket and beverages aboard.

Advertisement
Advertisement
|
|
|
|