Following Don Juan's footsteps

May 27, 2007|Indira A. R. Lakshmanan, Globe Correspondent

Start your day as a libertine by losing yourself in the winding streets of the charming old Jewish quarter, the Barrio Santa Cruz, home to Don Juan.

Gazing down from the center of Plaza de los Refinadores is a statue of the fabled womanizer. Every year on Oct. 31 and Nov. 1, a Don Juan morality play is performed in the nearby Plaza de la Alianza. Young men clad in period clothing parade in the streets while their female counterparts gaze from the balconies above. Festivities culminate in Plaza de los Refinadores.

A few blocks west in the Plaza de los Venerables, a tile on the wall of Justino de Neve Street marks the birthplace, according to popular legend, of the fictional Don Juan. On the far side of the square's grove of fragrant orange trees, the Hostería del Laurel tavern is where José Zorrilla's "Don Juan Tenorio" (1844) boozed with fellow libertines and bragged of his exploits.

Two short blocks south is the tiny street of Calle Susona, where a tile in the shape of a skull commemorates the real-life tragic love story between a Jewish girl and a Christian soldier, and where Douglas Carlton Abrams has set the home of his heroine, Doña Ana , in his new novel, "The Lost Diary of Don Juan."

Around the corner, in the Plaza de Doña Elvira, another tile marks the reputed home of Zorrilla's heroine, Doña Inés, who redeems the dissolute Juan .

Stroll north to Calle Águilas on the far side of the Jewish quarter to see Casa de Pilatos, a sumptuous 16th-century palace of imported marble, on which the palace of the Marquis de la Mota, Don Juan's libertine mentor, was based in Abrams's version.

Around the corner on Calle Levies is the two-story home of Don Miguel de Manara, the 17th-century Sevillian nobleman known for his reputed romantic conquests and conversion to piety on whom many believe Zorrilla's Don Juan was based.

Don't miss the magnificent Alcázar royal palace, and if you go before July 1, take in an open-air performance of the Don Juan story in the palace gardens.

In the erstwhile red-light district of El Arenal, now home to some of the city's best flamenco shows and taverns, visit the baroque Hospital de la Caridad, endowed by Don Miguel, the man who purportedly inspired Zorrilla. A statue, tomb, and plaque commemorate its benefactor, while its art includes a painting by Murillo and sculpture by Roldán.

To unwind after a long day of sightseeing, there could be no better treat than a trip to the Arab baths on Calle Aire 15 in the Barrio Santa Cruz (airedesevilla.com ), a luxurious and romantic Moorish-style spa with hot and cold pools, sauna, Jacuzzi, and massage in a historic setting.

By night, make time for a flamenco show, one of the most romantic styles of dance and folk music that draws influences from gypsy, Moorish, and the Sephardic Jewish cultures of Andalusia. Casa de la Memoria on Calle Ximénez de Enciso 28, in the Barrio Santa Cruz, puts on some of the most authentic performances.

For those who prefer literary time travel with a living muse, an excellent bilingual official guide, Antonio Doblas ( es.geocities.com/guiassevilla ), will share all the city's secrets with any Don Juan or history enthusiast.

For more information on Seville or the events celebrating the legend of Don Juan, visit the tourism board's turismosevilla.org or the office at Calle Arjona 28.

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