Out of the garden with just the right touch

I was glad to discover that I can make a light but satisfying meal out of two vegetable dishes, an expedient formula for cool summer dining. Wells likes flavors that tease or attack the palate; soothing elements like cream always turn up hand in hand with something bracingly acidic or penetratingly sour. I like the simplicity of asparagus braised with fresh rosemary and bay leaves; the spears first steam and then sizzle on their damp bed of herbs. Steamed eggplant with buttermilk-thyme dressing is a mushy comfort food, paired with a garlic wake-up call so loud nobody could forget about it for hours afterward. Spicy sweet potato "fries" combine crisp and soft textures with a suggestion of chili. Swiss chard gratin with pine nuts and Parmesan bubbles and seethes enticingly; if the chard ribs do not add much in the way of character, they are entirely competent as a vehicle for the cheese.

Cooler dishes are equally inventive: a potato salad with spring onions, capers, and mint has a vinegary, sweetly herbal lift. Zucchini carpaccio with avocado and lemon thyme took me completely by surprise. I never dreamed that raw squash could be so refreshing. Baby spinach, radish and mint salad jumps with bright notes and crisp texture; creamy lemon-chive dressing smooths the edges without dulling them.