"There are thousands of vegetarians in Argentina," says Manuel Martí, of the Vegetarian Union Argentina, which recently held its third annual national conference. "Sure, most people here think we're a little strange. But we're used to it."
Gourmet vegetarian restaurants that serve organic, vegan, and raw food have been opening throughout Buenos Aires over the past several years. Visiting vegetarians will find a surprising array of dining choices such as phyllo dough filled with pumpkin and goat cheese, polenta lasagna, and organic salads.
The favorable exchange rate makes prices low: vegetarian main courses cost $4 to $8, and a bottle of good wine runs $5 to $12. But diners must take care not to arrive at a restaurant famished; although cordial, service in Buenos Aires is generally slow, at best.
Here is a guide to vegetarian dining options in various neighborhoods of the capital:
Palermo Viejo and Palermo Chico Palermo Viejo, one of the trendiest neighborhoods in the city, is home to a handful of vegetarian restaurants including Artemisia, which is charmingly funky yet sophisticated. Diners enjoy their meals at tables set with white tablecloths and statuesque wine glasses. "What we wanted to do is serve healthy, gourmet, vegetarian food in a festive environment ," says owner Carolina Guryn, who opened Artemisia three years ago with partner Gabriel Gomez.
Guryn and Gomez serve imaginative dishes with either Mediterranean or Asian influences, such as polenta lasagna filled with grilled red peppers . Wendy Lieberman, a vegetarian of 20 years who moved here recently from Miami, recommends Artemisia's appetizer of three small salads. "The freshness, quality, and variety of greens is unusual for Buenos Aires," she says.
Krishna Veggie Lunch is a lively two-room restaurant that serves vegetarian food all day. It is adorned with icons, shrines, paintings, and murals depicting all faiths. It also has a disco ball hanging from the ceiling and a soundtrack that ranges from OutKast to Bob Dylan to Indian dub.
