It'll grow on you

Known as the Elm city, Conn. coastal town enjoys a big city feel

January 24, 2007|Jan Shepard, Globe correspondent

Founded in 1638 , this coastal community is recognized worldwide as the home of Yale University. Yet the "Elm City" holds other claims to fame. When its founding fathers arrived from England, they laid out nine squares and a central common, creating the country's first planned municipality. That green remains the hub of the city. Louis' Lunch takes credit for creating America's first hamburger. Silly Putty , lollipops, pizza, the telephone switchboard, automatic revolver, and Erector sets also trace their origins to here. In the last decade, New Haven revived neighborhoods, demolished the Coliseum, and initiated a $230 million Gateway Downtown Development Project as mixed-use renewal. With more than 100 restaurants, various shopping districts, museums, concerts, theater, visual arts, lectures, films, night spots, and landmark architecture, the small city generates a big-city vibe.

Fuel

The dining scene is a smorgasbord of international flavors. Pacífico (220 College St., 203-772-4002, pacificony.com, $18.95-$26.95) practices Latin American fusion while Pot-au-Pho (77 Whitney Ave., 203-776-2248, $8-$11 ) specializes in Vietnamese dishes. Ibiza (39 High St., 203-865-1933, ibizanewhaven.com, $22-$27) goes with a Spanish menu. Malaysia's spicy flavors star at Bentara Restaurant (76 Orange St., 203-562-2511, bentara.com, $11.95-$18.95).

A handsome 1860 building houses the Union League Cafe, a French brasserie (1032 Chapel St., 203-562-4299, unionleaguecafe.com, $17.50-$32). Claire's Corner Copia, a vegetarian cafe (1000 Chapel St., 203-562-3888, clairescornercopia.com, $6-$10), opened Basta Trattoria next door (1006 Chapel St., 203-772-1715, bastatrattoria.com, $14-$24) , emphasizing organic and sustainable ingredients for its southern Italian fare.

The Copper Kitchen (1008 Chapel St., 203-777-8010 ) serves homestyle cooking at bargain prices. You can't beat two eggs, homefries, and toast for $3 or a $6-$7 daily special.

Chapel St. Historic District stores are a welcome change from cookie-cutter malls. The Yale Center for British Art Museum Shop (see Do) carries contemporary English jewelry, glass, and pottery as well as art books and imaginative cards. Idiom (1014 Chapel St., 203-782-2280, idiomboutique.com ) offers sparkling jewelry, clothing, and accessories, among them Zulu-made shoes. Hello Boutique (1090 Chapel St., 203-562-0204, helloboutique.com) carries stylish clothes and accessories. Wave Gallery (1046 Chapel St., 203-782-6212) crowds handcrafted home accessories and gifts into adjacent galleries.

Villarina's Pasta, Gifts & More (1092 Chapel St., 203-772-0872 ) doubles as an Italian food resource and gift emporium. Atticus Bookstore Cafe (1082 Chapel St., 203-776-4040 ) has the perfect motto: "A world of reading. Since 109 B.C."

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