From the south, the first sign appears about 500 feet from the farm. It reads: "Otis Chickens Retirement Plan: Roasters, Fricassee, a la King, BBQ." From the north, three signs in succession direct you to the farm, ending with the message: "Limited Edition Eggs, Only Laid Once." Finally, a red building looms, bearing yet more signs, its entrance flanked by two cartoon chickens. They look mighty happy to see you.
The poultry farm's roots run back about 100 years to a time when captains of industry were building summer mansions in Lenox and Stockbridge, the "inland Newports" on the western side of the Berkshire Hills. At the same time, David Pyenson started his chicken farm in this East Berkshires hill town.
At first, Pyenson raised chicks he sold to poultry farmers. Then he bought laying hens and started producing "table eggs" -- the kind people crack into a frying pan or stir into cake batter. Then he added a small store.
Although the Lenox High School sports teams still call themselves the "Millionaires," most of the old wealthy families sold their mansions decades ago. But the Pyenson family still owns the Otis Poultry Farm, although it is a changed enterprise.
The second generation enlarged the store, adding staples to the basic lineup of chicken and eggs. The third generation, brothers Andy and Steve Pyenson, expanded the shop into a 10,000-square-foot country store, which has became a sprawling roadside attraction like something out of the 1950s.
This general-store-gone-wild can bring out the kid in almost anyone. Shoppers of all stripes prowl the crowded aisles, including black-clad New Yorkers killing time before a summer performance at Jacob's Pillow Dance Festival in neighboring Becket. One of the biggest wine selections this side of the Berkshires shares space with hand-packed candy, homemade breads and pies (chicken and turkey pies come in five sizes, with and without vegetables), and local cheese and maple products.
Then there are sheepskin shoes and slippers (tanned without toxins), classic wooden toys, candles, and T-shirts, to name just a few. Farm-fresh eggs? They're here, too, but these days the egg business is primarily wholesale, says Andy Pyenson, 57.
