Take the giant steps

Hitting a jazz club makes New York sound memorable

December 10, 2006|David French, Globe Correspondent

NEW YORK -- My friend and I came up the steps from the basement club elated. We had seen the 14-piece Mingus Big Band from just in front of the stage, where you can feel the bass and the baritone sax, and would almost think you could reach out and grab some of the notes the trumpets were shedding.

It had rained while we were inside and the lights from Times Square reflected off the misty sky and Broadway's slick surface like a scene from a film noir. We said goodnight to the fashionable Tokyo couple who had been seated next to us, then set off into the buzz and shuffle of the city, riding a rush of energy, trying to put into words what we had just seen and wondering what to do next.

It is close to 90 years since the Original Dixieland Jazz Band first caused a sensation in New York playing raucous New Orleans music at Reisenweber's Restaurant, and more than half a century since the heyday of 52d Street's jazz row.

But there is still no better way to get a bite of the Big Apple -- to feel the romance and pulse of the city -- than to spend an evening in one of its many jazz clubs. Whether you reserve seats online to see a legend, or shove bills into a beer pitcher at a basement jam session, at the end of the night you will hail a cab or head to the subway feeling that you have had an unforgettable New York experience.

The biggest problem is deciding where to go. Scattered around the city are scores of venues where you can scratch almost any musical itch, from Dixieland to free jazz. For jazz fans, it's always a thrill to see an artist whose work you know, and weekends are when many clubs put on their big names. However, you can find great music every night, and many places fill the early part of the week with regular acts that have proven drawing power.

Seeing jazz in New York doesn't have to be expensive. For the price of one set of music and a couple of martinis at Dizzy's Club Coca-Cola, which is perched atop a high-end shopping mall in the Time Warner Center , you could spend two long nights drinking beer in the charmingly shabby jazz cellars of Greenwich Village, or a full week sipping bottled water at The Stone . Students should always ask if discount admissions are offered.

Geographically, there are two main areas for jazz, Greenwich Village and Midtown, both easy to get to by subway. Village spots tend to be smaller and cheaper; Midtown clubs are more upscale and offer food. They are all worth exploring.

Wherever you're going, it's a good idea to call ahead. Ask for a description of the music , confirm price and directions, see if you need reservations, and find out when you should arrive to ensure a good seat. Clubs can get quite crowded, though this makes it easy to start a conversation.

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