Hot browns

November 20, 2006

Serves 4

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 6 tablespoons flour 3 1/4 cups whole milk 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling 1 egg Salt and pepper, to taste 8 slices toast, halved diagonally 1 pound sliced roast turkey 8 strips of bacon, rendered until golden 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1. Turn on the broiler. Have on hand four 9-inch gratin dishes or other shallow, flameproof dishes.

2. In a heavy-based saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and continue stirring until it absorbs the butter and stops foaming. Do not let it brown.

3. Whisk in the milk a little at a time. Add the Parmesan cheese. Continue whisking as the milk comes almost to a boil.

4. In a bowl, beat the egg lightly. Add a spoonful of the hot sauce to the egg. Then add the egg mixture to the sauce, stirring over very low heat until the sauce thickens slightly. Add salt and pepper.

5. In the dishes, arrange 4 pieces of toast in each one. Divide the turkey among the dishes, cover each with one-quarter of the cheese sauce and sprinkle each with extra Parmesan.

6. Slide the dishes under the broiler and cook until tops are bubbling and speckled with brown.

7. Garnish each dish with 2 crossed bacon strips and parsley. Adapted from Brown Hotel, Louisville, Ky.