A pampering in Vermont

Food and comfort con brio

November 05, 2006|Sheryl Julian, Globe Staff

WOODSTOCK, Vt. -- Around the moment you begin to hear the birds, you start to smell the bacon. There are no other sounds in the old house. Innkeepers Dora Foschi and David Livesley have given all guests slippers, so you hear no footsteps on the stair treads or the old floors.

After you're awake, stumble out into the lively dining room at The Woodstocker Inn, and folk music is playing, newspapers are spread out on tables, and the British-born Livesley is probably trilling his way through the breakfast offerings. You can make French roast organic coffee in individual presses, he explains, help yourself to English tea, scoop homemade granola onto local yogurt, or feast on his specialty -- "the full monty." This means lots of meat (even kidneys!), golden-yolked eggs, pork sausages, Canadian bacon, broiled tomato halves, and mushrooms. Nearly everything is grown, harvested, or collected on neighboring farms. The innkeepers have gone to considerable expense to have it this way. "Hot breakfasts cooked to order," reads the information sheet in the rooms. If you sleep in and want breakfast right when the kitchen is closing, you'll probably get it without fuss.

Foschi and Livesley are so new to the bed-and-breakfast business that you have to wonder if they're still in the honeymoon phase. They've just celebrated their first year in operation. But they say they wouldn't have done it if they thought they couldn't do it well. Before they came to this country -- and went to the trouble of securing business investment visas to buy the Woodstocker (no small task) -- they did their homework and talked about it at length. Their special circumstances, explains Livesley, mean "that as long as the business entity is trading, you can stay and renew your visa." In other words, they don't have to make money right away.

The two decided they needed all the zeal they could muster. Enthusiasm, says Livesley, 46, who was born in Leeds , in north central England , is what distinguishes every successful innkeeper he and Foschi, 47, visited before buying their own place. And enthusiasm is what these innkeepers have in spades. Especially about food, about sustainable agriculture and local farms, and about the green movement. Running a business and keeping all this in mind is a tall order. But, says Livesley, "We've become very adept at juggling 47 balls."

What they imagined when they opened the inn, he says, is that it would be "like going back to your parents' house, but your parents aren't there." Of course, they would have to have contemporary taste. One room has a red toilet and frosted glass walls. What you may notice, he adds, "is not one single inch of floral wallpaper."

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