ARTFUL LODGING: Their villa, near the resort area of Sorrento on the Gulf of Naples, was ``a beautiful place, built in the seventh century," Clark said. ``An artist owns the house and all her original artwork is on the walls, and the walls were color- washed in vibrant colors. There were three bedrooms, so a couple of us had to share beds, but we knew that going in."
THE FABRIZIO FACTOR: For the occasional daylong excursions the women took together, they used the services of Fabrizio, the driver they had hired beforehand. ``He was really wonderful," Clark said, ``a young, friendly, handsome Italian man." Day trips included the island of Capri, where Fabrizio secured them a boat and captain; a day in Rome, three hours away; and a tour of Pompei. But Clark's favorite experiences were closer at hand.
LEMON YELLOW TO BLUES: The Americans wanted to immerse themselves in the village, Massa Lubrense, where most people harvest lemons and olives, Clark said. One day, a lemon grove owner saw the women admiring her garden gate and invited them in. ``Her family had owned the land for generations," Clark said. ``The grove had ancient Roman arches. She brought us lemon slices with sugar and also gave us limoncello, which they make. That's the main industry there." At another family grove, they ordered a home-cooked meal. ``They set up a big table in the grove. It was a beautiful evening, with children running around." Yet another dinner was orchestrated by Fabrizio at the villa, with a chef and a sommelier. ``Fabrizio played the harmonica for us," she said. ``Who knows where he learned the American blues."
A CONVERT: Clark saw a religious procession along streets lined with candles and flower petal designs. She also was privy to the country's other religion : soccer. ``The whole center of town was decorated with flags and they'd brought in big- screen TVs for the World Cup," she said. Though she had not before been particularly tuned in to Italy , now, she said, ``I feel like a paisan," a compatriot.
SEE WHERE THEY WENT Send suggestions within two weeks of your return to diane@bydianedaniel.com.
