A view to behold

The mountains meet the sea in this Maine community rich in culture

September 06, 2006|Necee Regis, Globe Correspondent

From an aerial view, Mount Desert Island looks like a paw print at the edge of the sea along Maine's northern coast. The third-largest island on the Eastern Seaboard, it's home to Acadia National Park, a 41,000-acre preserve that encompasses glacier-carved mountains, dense forests, marshes, meadows, freshwater lakes, and a sandy beach on the frigid Atlantic.

There's only one road onto the island. On the eastern side, the lively town of Bar Harbor acts as the commercial and social hub of the community. One also finds there the ports of Northeast Harbor, with art galleries, crafts by local artisans, and handmade contemporary jewelry, and Seal Harbor, a boat-bejeweled cove.

The western half of the island is referred to as the "quietside ." Here, Southwest Harbor is known for commercial fishing and boatbuilding as well as its lovely Main Street with restaurants, shops, and a library. To traverse the island you must navigate around Somes Sound , the only natural fiord on the East Coast.

Though one can dine well and shop creatively, visitors primarily come here for the magnificent landscape and the opportunity to kayak, sail, hike, bike, fish, and generally get away from it all.

Do

Acadia National Park offers myriad choices for those who want to get out in nature. Whether you favor hiking, biking, swimming, bird-watching, or all of the above, the best way to begin is a stop at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center (off Route 3, north of Bar Harbor, www.nps.gov/acad , open mid-April to Oct. 31, 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. -- it stays open later from July through September -- $20 per vehicle for a seven-day pass). Here you can watch a 15-minute orientation program on the history of Acadia, see a scale model of the park, pick up some maps, and get advice from park staff on activities that best suit your interests. There's also a full schedule of ranger-led activities. The Park Loop Road offers magnificent views for those who prefer driving to hiking.

Chickadees, loons, bald eagles, and songbirds are not only found in the park, they are also carved in wood and displayed -- more than 200 of them -- at the Wendell Gilley Museum (4 Herrick Road, Southwest Harbor, 207-244-7555, www.wendellgilleymuseum.org , $5). It's estimated that Gilley, a Mount Desert resident, carved more than 10,000 birds in his lifetime, becoming known as one of the premier bird carvers in the country. Demonstrations are given most days when the museum is open, and wannabe carvers should check the schedule, as workshops for various skill levels are held throughout the year.

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