Finding a true taste of Mexico in the woods of Maine

You won't find anything out of a bottle or a can here. All the salsas, marinades, seasoning pastes, and sauces are made on the premises from ingredients hauled back from Mexico on Strong and Hoyt's yearly visits, or, more recently, ordered on the Internet.

Strong and Hoyt have been traveling to Mexico since the early 1980s. What began as an inexpensive place to escape to during the cold Maine winter has turned into a passion about the country and its cuisine.

The name XYZ derives from Xalapa, Yucatán, and Zacatecas. The menu reflects foods from these places and others. `` I'm doing . . . a rustic cuisine, something you'd find out on a ranch in the countryside. It's not what you'll find in Mexico City," says Hoyt.

For example, Xalapa, the capital of Veracruz, is home to the jalapeno, which, when smoked, is called a chipotle. (On most current maps the town is spelled Jalapa. Using an ``X" reflects the native Indian preference.)

``This region is known for smoking their peppers. It's common to find smoked chipotle salsa on the tables there," Strong says.

``Mexico is a diverse place. The farther south you go, the food gets more intense and complex," Hoyt says. ``In the Yucatán, they dry chiles to make a black paste. They also make cochinito, pork rubbed with achiote paste, which adds a nutty flavor. And in Puebla, they make mole poblano, which originated from the kitchens of nuns in the colonial days."

Hoyt's enthusiasm is evident in a menu that changes weekly to keep both his clients and himself excited. On a stormy day in late July the menu had a color theme -- green, red, black, and orange -- and we tried the last two.

Pollo in Salsa Naranja, from the northern highlands of Michoacán, featured chicken thighs in a sublime orange sauce that was sharp, not sweet, like the essence of an orange. Pollo Negro, chicken thighs in a black sauce made with pasilla negra chiles , was a rustic dish originating in Oaxaca.

O f the several weekly choices for appetizers and entrees, only three stay in permanent rotation .