This history of jeans has a few rough patches

August 31, 2006|Globe Correspondent

Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon, By James Sullivan, Gotham, 303 pp., illustrated, $26

No one who's reconnoitered a bookstore these last few years can be ignorant of a trend in nonfiction that might as well be called the microhistory. Best known is Mark Kurlansky's triptych of ``Salt," ``Cod," and ``1968," but there have been tomes on candy and fast food and a few substances barely worth a magazine fluff piece. Now firmly established, the trope requires writers to push in on seemingly ubiquitous matter for an investigative close - up. Embedded in its seemingly small story is a much larger one that speaks to something profound about our past and future.

Well, that's how it's supposed to work anyway.

Enter James Sullivan, who has written for a host of publications, including Rolling Stone, Entertainment Weekly, and The Boston Globe. Few would argue against his basic contention that jeans are iconically American. ``Blue jeans -- not soft drinks, or cars, or computers -- are the crowning product of American ingenuity," Sullivan writes. ``They are timeless -- flawlessly designed, yet infinitely versatile."

Sullivan notes that jeans -- like so many significant American inventions -- were not invented by an individual, but instead evolved. This evolution is chronicled thoroughly, from Gold Rush days when denim was developed by outfitters catering to prospectors. The story then fades into the long rise and quick fall of Levi Strauss, a manufacturer whose 501 jeans were the most successful clothing item in the world and whose annual sales tanked by nearly half in recent years.

The history of jeans in America hardly wants for fascinating tidbits -- who knew, for instance, that regional denim companies once occupied positions of civic pride now enjoyed almost exclusively by microbrews.

Unfortunately, Sullivan's tidbits are more interesting than his overarching narrative. Much of what's stitched together is tough for those not already entrenched in the history of fashion to get excited about. Sullivan does an admirable job historicizing the major shifts in denim's ascendance -- the slow transition from a workingman's trouser to something gender nonexclusive and fit for casual wear. Then, more recently, to high-end fashion with jeans blasting past the $400 mark.

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