Cafe Goa is a friendly, pleasant place that doesn't try to imitate the upscale ambience of its predecessor. Sure, the white linen tablecloths were spotless, and we appreciated the way our server placed our dinner napkins on our laps with a flourish. But my view through a window was the back of the restaurant's neon sign overlooking the parking lot and my companion faced the television screen high on the opposite wall, which featured sensual Bollywood music videos. That might explain why he seemed distracted, or maybe it was the music, which was a tad too loud.
The cafe specializes in the cuisine of Goa, on the western coast of India. As the menu carefully explains, the curries of this former Portuguese colony usually contain coconut. Cafe Goa also offers plenty of choices from northern India, the food that most Indian restaurants offer.
The appetizers hailed from northern India. My palak tikki, potato and spinach patties dipped in chickpea batter and fried ($3.95), were dry, with an earthy taste. The puckery tamarind sauce offered as a condiment was the perfect foil.
My companion ordered a selection of vegetarian appetizers ($6.95), which included a cheese pakora, a mild, cheesy version of the palak tikki.
On the same platter, the vegetable pakoras, deep-fried vegetable fritters, were light and pleasantly crunchy.
Among our entrees, the standout was the garlic chicken ($12.95), one of Cafe Goa's specialties from the region of the same name. There were flecks of coconut in thick, rich sauce, which also hinted of licorice. It gave off a medium burn on the heat index, which I enjoyed.
My companion ordered shrimp korma ($13.95), but was served shrimp curry. The curry was a lovely, deeply flavored braise, and the shrimp was succulent. It just wasn't korma.
The only real disappointment was the mutter paneer, a vegetarian, tomato-based dish with fresh cheese and peas ($10.95). It should be mild and saucy, flavored with a bouquet of spices. Unfortunately it tasted flat, as if it weren't freshly made. The cheese was tough, and the sauce seemed to be choking on too many peas.
For a sweet finish, my companion ordered Punjabi kulfi ($3.95), a chunky frozen dessert made with saffron, almonds, sugar, and khoa, which is milk that has been boiled slowly until it is semisolid. A popular street food in India, it is subtly flavored and has a slightly dry texture, which takes a little getting used to.
My mango ice cream ($3.95), on the other hand, was creamy with a luscious flavor. There was nothing subtle about it, and it hit the spot.
DEBORAH KOPS
