I also pass giant rusted Japanese guns , relics from World War II. Some of their double barrels, more than 10 feet long, still point menacingly toward the water. Among them, purple orchids thrive in giant clusters.
Later, I relax with friends at the Rusty Anchor , an open-air bar that overlooks the sea. Suddenly it gets dark, the skies open up, and we watch the rain move in thick , twisting ribbons across the harbor. As I think about the images from the hike, I decide this is the most beautiful place I have ever seen.
I came to the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia as a volunteer with WorldTeach to teach English at a public high school. There is no McDonalds, no Starbucks, no traffic light here. For an adventurous traveler looking for a destination that feels completely off the map, this is it.
Beyond landscape, the best reason to come here is the people. I found most Pohnpeians reserved at first, but get to know them and you find they have almost bottomless grace and generosity. Many seem to have a relaxed yet passionate attitude toward life, and with time, you become more appreciative of the place and the lifestyle.
Not long ago, I paddled an outrigger canoe with some friends across the lagoon to Joy Island, a speck of sand and coconut palms just off the coast of Pohnpei. When we ran out of water, we smashed open coconuts and drank the sweet juice inside. Later, when I told my class about the trip -- the intense heat during the paddling, the taste of the coconut milk -- the happiness must have been written across my face. One student, a white flower tucked behind her ear, smiled and said, ``You're feeling this place now, aren't you?"
