O'Keefe on location

Where the artist sank new roots in the desert and made the elements all her own

July 02, 2006|Jane Roy Brown, Globe Correspondent
(Page 3 of 3)

Following the guide to the kitchen, the group passed a skull with curling antlers hanging on an outside wall and a ram's skull sitting on a shelf -- both O'Keeffe icons. Inside the whitewashed kitchen and pantry were neat rows of preserves and dried herbs, grown in the gardens and put up by O'Keeffe's housekeeper. The kitchen windows looked out to a front garden and walled entry courtyard, and, over the walls, the red hills.

Minutes later we stood in the studio, a separate adobe building with a vast picture window. This sparsely furnished building, dominated by views of Pedernal, Black Mesa, and a pale cliff known as ``the white place," felt like the heart of O'Keeffe's world. A sheet of plywood on sawhorses carried a graceful arrangement of round stones. Aside from bookcases and another plywood surface used as a desk, the other main piece of furniture was a single bed with a white spread next to the window. This was where the artist rested when she was working.

Her actual bedroom was on the other side of a wall at the far end of the studio, with a glass corner bringing her favorite views into the room. Looking out at the gray ribbon of Route 84 winding through the hills, O'Keeffe got the idea for `` Winter Road" (1963) , a mere suggestion of hills limned in calligraphic curves.

O'Keeffe's health failed in 1984, and she moved to Santa Fe to live under the care of a long time friend, Juan Hamilton. She died two years later, and her ashes were scattered on Pedernal.

Where her spirit went next is anyone's guess, but I like to think she left a clue in her 1958 painting ``Ladder to the Moon." In it, Pedernal's flat-capped silhouette dominates a sliver of black land at the bottom of the canvas. Above, a pale ladder hovers in a turquoise sky, stretching toward a distant half-moon.

Contact Jane Roy Brown, a freelance writer in Western Massachusetts, at janeroybrown@verizon.net.

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