SATURDAY
10 a.m. Hunt and gather
Kleparski Market Kleparski Square Examine the superb comestibles of Polish cuisine -- braids of garlic, baskets of wild mushrooms and fresh berries, and piles of cabbage -- at this bustling market.
11:45 a.m. Reverential moment
St. Mary's Church Main Market Square Shortly before noon, the church fills as a nun swings open the wings of the Gothic altarpiece to reveal the masterful carvings inside; $1.
1 p.m. Sweet and cool
Kawiarnia Noworolski Main Market Square 011-48-12-422-4771 Art Nouveau-style cafe serves light meals but is known for its elaborate ice cream desserts; $6.60-$11.30.
3 p.m. Tchotchke heaven
Cloth Hall Main Market Square One-stop souvenir shopping for Polish handcrafts.
7 p.m. Taste of old Poland
Restauracja Nostalgia ul. Karmelicka 10 011-48-12-425-4260 Try traditional hunter's stew with sauerkraut and mushrooms or grilled duck in plum brandy sauce; $3.15-$11.30.
SUNDAY
10 a.m. The old neighborhood
Kazimierz Follow the Vistula River to reach the former Jewish district, where parts of ``Schindler's List" were filmed.
Noon Bubby's kitchen
Klezmer Hois ul. Szeroka 6 011-48-12-411-1245
Late-19th-century furnishings and traditional Yiddish cooking in a busy little restaurant that features such dishes as turkey livers with raisins and almonds; $4.70-$12.25.
