The route can be booked year-round. It takes you from Bergen to Kirkenes, near the Russian border, stopping at 34 ports along the way. If you have only a week to spare, choose either the seven-day northbound journey or the six-day southbound. For more Norway, sign on for the 12-day round trip.
It's rare to find local sea routes offering so much nautical spit-and-polish and friendly service. Especially sleek are the ships built in the last four years -- the MS Midnatsol, the MS Trollfjord, and the one I sailed on, the MS Finnmarken. All have saunas, heated outdoor pools, and jacuzzis.
But nothing beats just sitting in the observation lounge, sipping some Aquavit, and trying to keep up with the scroll of startling scenery. Wind and sky enhance the drama of craggy cliffs and villages tipped along slopes. Winter darkness isn't black -- it's crackling with stars and northern lights in eerie green. Spring delivers wildflowers. Summer rings up hour after hour of nighttime sun.
The buzz on board has nothing to do with bingo, a Broadway revue, or a midnight buffet. It's deciding when to sleep. No one wants to miss the show outside.
Norwegian Coastal Voyage, Inc., 405 Park Ave., New York, N.Y. 10022. Information and reservations: 212-319-1300, 800-323-7436. www.norwegiancoastalvoyage.us. Fares vary widely depending on length of voyage and the type of cabin -- everything from inside triples to suites with sliding glass doors and private decks.
