Stowe: A Venerable Resort Polishes Its Image

November 13, 2005|Julia Lawlor

LIKE an aging star who's gone under the knife, Stowe Mountain Resort is in the midst of a $300 million makeover that its owners hope will restore Stowe to its place in the pantheon of world-class skiing.

No need to worry that the surgeon will cut too deep, though. The new development called Spruce Peak at Stowe bypasses Mount Mansfield, Stowe's most precious commodity. Instead, a new pedestrian village, base lodge, golf course, condos, hotel, single-family homes and town houses will be built on 35 acres at the base of Spruce Peak, the smaller mountain just across the road from Mansfield in northern Vermont.

The 10-year project began early in 2004, and this year skiers will begin to notice improvements. There is a new high-speed lift to the top of Spruce, a widened, recontoured top-to-bottom trail called Main Street, and a new automated snowmaking system.

Off the slopes, Stowe still has plenty to attract visitors, and the new development won't spoil the atmosphere. There is an active night-life scene, the magnificent setting in the Green Mountains and a wide range of winter activities including snowshoeing, sleigh-riding, dog-sledding, snowmobiling and Nordic skiing on one of the largest cross-country ski networks in the country. Stowe also has top-rated spas, sophisticated dining and enough shopping to inflict painful credit-card damage in an afternoon.

But the center of the action is, as it should be, on Stowe's legendary slopes. Its 48 trails boast the longest average trail length in New England, and Mount Mansfield, at 4,395 feet, is the highest peak in Vermont. Many of Stowe's trails are unique because each was hand-cut by members of the Civilian Conservation Corps during the 1930's.

Experts who want thrills will head to the famously difficult Front Four top-to-bottom runs on Mount Mansfield. Beginners and those who want a more relaxed experience can take the resort's longest trail, the 3.7-mile-long Toll Road, which starts at the top of Mansfield and meanders gently down through the woods, offering stunning views of the valley around every corner. There is even a small stone chapel along the Toll Road for spiritual refueling.

For the downhill skier, sunrise signals a drive (or a ride in the free Stowe shuttle bus; check www.gostowe.com for schedule) to Mount Mansfield. After sampling Mansfield in the morning, many take the shuttle bus to Spruce Peak to take advantage of the lingering afternoon rays on the south-facing slopes. (As part of planned improvements, the bus ride will be replaced by an aerial lift next winter.) Alternatively, those who prefer the beginner and intermediate trails of Spruce, or who have signed up for ski or snowboard lessons, may want to spend the entire day at Spruce.

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