Cycle the loops

Challenging climbs, exhilarating vistas that even a Coloradan will draw inspiration from

October 30, 2005|Marty Basch, Globe Correspondent

FRANCONIA NOTCH, N.H.- Sam Damon wanted to show his future brother-in-law around the White Mountains. He figured he could show him the high points like the cliffs and mountain ranges of Franconia Notch State Park, the majesty of a grand hotel with a Presidential backdrop at the top of Crawford Notch, and the drama and hills of the winding Kancamagus Highway along the fast-moving Swift River.

Damon, 23, from Concord, had plotted about an 80-mile loop to showcase his home state to Andrew Gardner, 27, of Carbondale, Colo. -- on bicycles.

''Kind of the epic factor, I guess," Damon said before the two amateur bicycle racers rode off from the parking area at the Cannon Mountain aerial tram in the state park. ''The loop is scenic and you get to see a lot of the hot spots in New Hampshire."

Damon had done a challenging 100-mile White Mountain loop in about five hours. I was planning to tackle that route when I rolled up to them as they were getting ready to ride on.

My plan was simple. Carry the charge card and a small backpack and roll around the Whites. My partner, Jan Duprey, had come along but decided to wait in the pickup and crochet. That was OK. We had ridden the loop on a tandem bike a few years ago.

On this mountainous ride, there are plenty of diversions for those who pedal and those who don't. Motels are plentiful, with clusters on both sides of the Whites. Crawford Notch has the historic grande dame, the Mount Washington Hotel, and the new Appalachian Mountain Club Highland Center. Bartlett has a few places to stay along Route 302. Man-made entertainment includes the dancing bears at Clark's Trading Post in North Woodstock, the Conway Scenic Railroad through Crawford Notch, and the Alpine Slide down Attitash in Bartlett. Pizza, beer, and ice cream -- cyclists' favorites all -- are never far away.

The 34 miles along the sinuous, daunting Kancamagus Highway (Route 112) between Conway (the starting point) and Lincoln, the longest stretch without food or motels, is filled with natural wonders from the swimming holes by Lower Falls to the solid walls of Rocky Gorge. Touring cyclists hauling tents have six campgrounds to choose from, and there are well-placed benches at observation points and plenty of spots to fill water bottles. The Kanc's been getting cosmetic surgery of late, and shoulders are getting wider and parking areas have better flow.

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