The last two days of our magic journey gave new meaning to the notion of ''saving the best for last." On both days, we saw the incredible intersection of ancient and modern, brought about through a concerted world effort. The impetus for the international cooperation was the realization that construction of the Aswan High Dam, and the resulting creation of Lake Nasser, would flood some of Egypt's most impressive ancient sites: the island of Philae and the extraordinary temples of Abu Simbel.
Passage through antiquity
The ancient and the modern on the Nile's ebb and flow
(Page 5 of 5)
The temples on Philae were moved to the higher island of Agilkia with great care, taken to ensure that even those portions of the structures that were in ruins were re-created exactly as they had existed on the sacred isle, considered to be the domain of the goddess Isis.
Most magnificent of all of the ancient sites is Abu Simbel, a short plane ride from Aswan, in the heart of Nubian territory near the border of Sudan. Here, in what may be the greatest act of self-glorification of all times, Ramses the Great (Ramses II) dedicated a temple, at least theoretically, to Amon-Ra, Harmakes, and Ptah. But in fact, Ramses honored himself, most notably with four absolutely massive, virtually identical, seated statues carved into the mountain, guarding the entrance to the larger of two temples. Inside, almost 200 feet from the entrance, are statues of Ramses II and the three gods whom he purported to honor. Twice a year, we were told, the sun penetrates the long corridor and bathes the seated figures in light for a scant five minutes -- supposedly excluding Ptah, the god of darkness.
Perhaps even more amazing than the initial construction of the temples was the modern, meticulous relocation of the entire site. Lake Nasser would have engulfed these amazing structures, along with many other Nubian antiquities, but for the extraordinary international consortium of engineers and archeologists who made the project possible. Here, again, the entire massive complex was cut into pieces and reassembled on higher ground, exactly as it existed in its original state, right down to the placement of fallen pieces of sculpture dating to an earthquake in Ramses's own time.
Even for the most experienced traveler, Egypt qualifies as a potentially life-altering experience. The artistic and engineering acumen of a people who preceded us by more than 3,000 years is both inspiring and humbling. That so many of the country's remarkable antiquities are accessible from the beautiful Nile is a bonus that sets Egypt apart from the locales of other ancient cultures.
What a shame it will be if world events deprive others of the opportunity to visit.
Joan Lukey is a lawyer in Boston.
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