There are maypole-raising ceremonies near Leksand on Thursday and Saturday nights and Friday afternoon. But the real show is on Friday night. Up to 20,000 people gather in town to watch traditionally-dressed people float down the river in church boats, garlands in hand. Then there is a procession to the raising of the maypole in the natural amphitheater of Sammilsdal, complete with fiddlers and dancing into the night.
How to get there
Leksand is about 150 miles northwest of Stockholm and most easily accessible by train. The trip takes about 3 1/4 hours, and second-class tickets cost approximately $40 one-way. For a schedule, visit www.sj.se.
Where to stay
Hotel Korstäppan
Hjortnäsvägen 33
011-46-247-123-10
www.korstappan.se
E-mail: hotell@korstappan.se
Built in 1906 as a manor house, this hotel also offers a special Midsummer program. Doubles $140.
Where to eat
Bygatan 16 Bar & Mat
Bygatan 16
011-46-247-155-05
www.bygatan.se
E-mail: info@bygatan.se
Traditional Swedish food with a focus almost solely on grilled beef, fish, lamb and potatoes. Fixed-price daily lunch $11; dinner entrees $20-$30.
Tourist information
Siljan Turism Leksand
Norsgatan 40
011-46-247-796-130
www.siljan.se
E-mail: leksand@siljan.se
VAXHOLM,the Stockholm archipelago
The thousands of forested islands set in clear waters that make up the Stockholm archipelago are the favorite summer holiday retreats for Stockholm residents. Vaxholm is often called the ''capital" of the archipelago. Vaxholm and the nearby islands of Resaro and Tynningo have traditional Midsummer celebrations with the raising of the maypole, dancing, and outdoor parties, all in a gorgeous island setting.
How to get there
Vaxholm is 21 miles northeast of Stockholm, about 30 minutes by car and an hour by boat. It may be longer, but taking the boat is a more rewarding experience. There are two primary boat companies with service to Vaxholm from central Stockholm.
Waxholmsbolaget
011-46-867-95830
www.waxholmsbolaget.se
This is the primary ferry company. One-way just under $10.
Cinderella Batarna
011-46-858-714000
www.cinderellabatarna.com
These boats are faster, though they do not run as frequently. One-way about $11.
Where to stay
Waxholms Hotell
Hamngatan 2
011-46-854-130150
www.waxholmshotell.se
E-mail: info@waxholmshotell.se
Set right on the water, this hotel is a Vaxholm landmark with a view of the island's centuries-old fortress. Doubles $175-$235.
Where to eat
Melanders Fisk Hamngatan 2
011-46-8-541-334-66
www.melanders.se
In the bottom of the Waxholms Hotell, this is a branch of a well-known Stockholm fishmonger and seafood restaurant. The restaurant serves, not surprisingly, mostly fish, with lunch menus and entrees at $13-$40.
Tourist information
VisitVaxholmAB
Turistbyrån, Rådhuset
011-46-8-541-314-80
www.visitvaxholm.com
E-mail: info@visitvaxholm.com