If you go: Canoeing in Maine

June 12, 2005

How to get there

The towns in the northern St. John Valley -- St. Francis, Allagash, and Dickey -- are often used as a staging point for river trips in the region. St. Francis is 435 miles north of Boston. Take Interstate 95 north into Maine, then state Route 11 north to Fort Kent and state Route 161 west to St. Francis. Under good conditions, the drive takes roughly nine hours.

What to do

The Big Black River, and the St. John into which it flows, are navigable by canoe only a few weeks each spring, usually beginning in early May. The St. John, far longer and better known, is a popular destination that has well-maintained campsites from Baker Lake north for more than 100 miles to Dickey. The Big Black, while similar to the upper reaches of the St. John, is more remote, with only one campsite maintained and other good camping spots at times far apart. Both rivers can be traveled by those with gear -- tents, canoes, cooking equipment -- and experience. Others may want to hire the services of a guide to organize and lead the trip.

Jack Mountain Bushcraft & Guide Service

Box 61

267 Camp School Road

Wolfeboro Falls, N.H. 03896

603-569-6150

E-mail: tim@jackmtn.com

www.jackmountainbushcraft.com

Tim Smith runs this year-round business, teaching wilderness living and survival skills, and guiding canoe, snowshoe, and fishing trips. An authoritative, easygoing instructor, Smith is a Maine master guide and has experience on rivers in Alaska and Florida, as well as the Big Black, St. John, and Allagash rivers.

Pole & Paddle Canoe

705 Foss Road

Limerick, ME 04048

207-793-2402

E-mail: don@poleandpaddle.com

www.poleandpaddle.com

Don Merchant is a craftsman who sells handmade wood and canvas canoes, poles, wooden storage lockers, and other traditional gear. A Maine master guide, he leads canoe trips on request.

Maine Professional GuidesAssociation

Box 336

Augusta, ME 04332

E-mail: info@maineguides.org

www.maineguides.org/canoeguides.php

The website contains an extensive listing of individual guides and outfitting services, several of whom offer trips on the rivers of the St. John Valley.

North Maine Woods, Inc.

Box 425

92 Main St.

Ashland, ME 04732

207-435-6213

www.northmainewoods.org

The organization, composed of corporate and individual landowners, oversees access to nearly 3 1/2 million acres of privately owned land in northern Maine. The rivers of the St. John Valley run within this area, and the organization's website has extensive information on checkpoints and visitors fees for those planning to canoe on the rivers.

Northern Hideaway Guide Service

Box 54

Fort Kent, ME 04743

418-456-3221

www.mainerec.com/hideaway/index.shtml

Hunting and fishing camp tucked amid logging company land on the banks of the Big Black River. Master guide Rod Sirois is a former game warden who knows the history of the land and its people well. For an intimate account of his family's experience with two coyotes raised at home, click on the ''Our Logo" location of the Northern Hideaway Web page.

More information

''North Woods: An Inside Look at the Nature of Forests in the Northeast"

by Peter J. Marchand

(Appalachian Mountain Club, paperback, 1994)

An informative and highly readable account of the formation and evolution of the woods of the northeastern United States, from the end of the last ice age to modern times.

''Nine Mile Bridge: Three Years in the Maine Woods" by Helen Hamlin

(Islandport Press, 2005)

Hamlin lived in the St. John Valley in the 1930s, and her memoirs of that period give color to the daily lives and special events of the logging community that called the woods home. First published in 1945, and just recently reissued.

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