All Aboard for Mt. Washington

December 31, 2004|Ryan Brandt

SNOWFLAKES the size of dimes fell lazily, coming to rest on branches of evergreen and white birch. Laid out below, a valley full of folding hills dissolved into the snowy haze. The only sound was the occasional scratching of ski edges as they cut into the groomed terrain. It was the picture of an idyllic winter escape until "Tffoooooot!" the high-pitched squeal of the Mount Washington Cog Railway sent disgruntled songbirds skyward.

But rather than disrupting skiers, the antique coal-fired locomotive and its billowing plume of steam reminded them that they were making turns on the highest peak in the Northeast, next to the world's oldest mountain cog railway.

Skiing Mount Washington has been a rite of passage for experts on the East Coast for almost 100 years, long reserved for those able and willing to hike two and a half hours up the east side of the mountain, scale a near-vertical bowl with skis thrown over their shoulders and drop the 55-degree headwall of the Tuckerman Ravine each spring. No longer. Last Sunday, the Mount Washington Cog Railway Ski Train officially opened on the opposite, west face of the mountain, allowing skiers and snowboarders to have free rein on a 75-foot-wide, mile-long swath of ambling intermediate and beginner terrain running parallel to the train below the tree line.

The slope is sedate in comparison to Tuck's, but the mystique of the peak and the pervading history of the 135-year-old cog railway were enough to spur skiers like Lisa and Geoffrey Colby of Boston to turn out for opening day. "Geoff wanted to come so he could tell people at home he skied Mount Washington," Ms. Colby said.

The cog train is run by a group of partners headed by three families who also share ownership of the Bretton Woods Mountain Resort and four lodging properties, including the Mount Washington Hotel six miles down the valley. The ski train is their latest effort to expand as a four-season resort. In 2000, after a $7.5 million renovation, they opened the sprawling, 102-year-old hotel for its first winter season, then added a slew of new features at the ski resort. These have included an expanded base lodge, 25 new trails in the last three years and another high-speed four-person chairlift.

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