Eclectic Plymouth, from shops to shore in a modern mode

November 21, 2004|Robert Preer, Globe Correspondent

PLYMOUTH -- There's a lot more to Plymouth than Pilgrims.

Certainly, if you want to know about the Mayflower and Plymouth Rock or see how the Pilgrims lived, this is the place to come.

Sometimes, however, one yearns for more contemporary amusements. Fortunately, even if you come here for the history, this town of 52,000 inhabitants offers much in the way of dining, wine tasting, and nightlife, as well as coastal drives and nature walks.

The town's traditional downtown is just a block from Plymouth Rock and the Mayflower replica. Take Water Street, or any street uphill, to Route 3A, which, in less than a mile, has four names: Court Street, Main Street, Main Street Extension, and Sandwich Street.

For many years, downtown Plymouth catered strictly to locals. Then, in 1989, the Independence Mall opened in neighboring Kingston and siphoned off the customers from town. The business district set about reinventing itself, and today the area has an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, and bars. Two of the old department stores have been turned into antique mini-malls: Main Street Marketplace and Main Street Antiques, sprawling establishments both owned by Michael Longo, with two floors of antiques of various kinds.

On nearby North Street, which runs from Water to Main and is a good route to take from the Rock to downtown, are several smaller antiques and furniture stores. Dillon and Co. specializes in English country furniture. Old North Street Tea and Curiosity Shop (the name says it all) is a small, quirky place specializing in, yes, antiques, old books, jellies, and a vast selection of teas.

Plymouth is not an antiquer's mecca. You wouldn't come here to spend an entire day antiques shopping, though you could certainly spend a couple of productive hours at it.

Among the town's other shops are Revolution, a used-record store with a wide selection of CDs and vinyl and DVDs; British Imports on Court Street, selling authentic English porridge, puddings, and potato crisps; and Pilgrim's Progress with men's and women's clothing.

Common Sense is an enchanting and fragrant establishment that sells fresh baked goods, soaps, herbs, and other natural products. The shop is run by the Messianic Community, a Christian sect that shuns modern conveniences.

Plymouth will never be confused with Napa Valley, but it does now boast three wineries: Plymouth Winery at Village Landing, Plymouth Bay Winery a couple of blocks south on Water Street, and Plymouth Colony Winery on Route 44 west of downtown. All three produce wines on site, and you can sample and purchase the finished products. Cranberries provide the local flavor for many of the wines.

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