Five for finding

Diverse Chathams offer a wide range of appealing sights

September 01, 2004|Jane Roy Brown, Globe Correspondent

CHATHAM, N.Y. -- If you pull over in a neighboring town to ask for directions to Chatham, be prepared for the question, "Which one?" Is it Old Chatham you want, or Chatham proper? East Chatham or North Chatham? Or maybe you're thinking of Chatham Center?

There is at least numerical consistency with the five Chathams, which are clustered within about 5 miles of one another, about 5 miles from the Massachusetts-New York border. Still, the Chathams, each with a distinct character, present more variety than confusion for visitors, who can opt for a rambling drive through old farm country, a stroll along sidewalks of a reviving railroad town, or a hike in the hills on the edge of the Hudson Valley.This part of New York State -- about a four-hour drive from Boston -- shares the Taconic Range with Berkshire County in Massachusetts and much of the Berkshires' bucolic scenery. Only Old Chatham, though, with its upscale country store and its horse farms, echoes the aura of neighboring Lenox and Stockbridge. East Chatham boasts farm stands and its own fine country store -- decidedly upscale but not as far up as Old Chatham.

North Chatham and Chatham Center comprise clusters of Victorian and Colonial homes, offering fine views from the car window but not much reason to stop.

Chatham, with the only downtown in the bunch, is home to the Mac-Haydn Theatre, a professional musical theater-in-the-round, and an old-fashioned Main Street. Spencertown Academy, five or so miles east, hosts vintage movies, art exhibits, and small-ensemble performances.

By serendipity, my husband and I stumbled upon a splendid bed-and-breakfast in East Chatham, the Milk & Honey, a renovated 18th-century farmhouse with 21st-century amenities. Owner Jean Dickason moved here from Manhattan in 1992 and poured her heart into fixing up the property. Her guest rooms are outfitted with the same fluffy bathrobes and superb mattresses as in high-end country inns, yet her summer rate of $95 was considerably cheaper. She serves elegant breakfasts on the rear deck overlooking her gardens, pond, and wetlands. One started with fresh orange juice, French-roast coffee, and two kinds of local strawberries. A basket of homemade cheese biscuits followed, served with Chatham honey. The meal peaked with a scrambled-eggs-and-cheese croissant, accompanied by sauteed asparagus with a light sesame-soy sauce. It was hard to leave the yard.

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