Glory be! Sushi has arrived in Dorchester (and not just at Shaw's supermarket). Now, you can actually sit at a sushi bar and watch the chef roll out maki, hamachi, and uni. The space that used to belong to Linda Mae's, where big breakfasts and meatloaf specials ruled, is now a pan-Asian restaurant, reflecting the ethnic change in the community. Even though the owner, James Pham, is Vietnamese, his menu is Chinese and Japanese -- to better suit his American clientele, he says. But there's also a large Asian population that has settled in Dorchester in the past generation, and he hopes to capture that market, too. "In this area, no one believes we can bring in an upscale restaurant. But there's a big Asian community, and after 20 years here, they're established and want something nice," says Pham, who used to live in the neighborhood but is now in Grafton.
Finally: Sushi in Dorchester
Pham has renovated the space, which includes a main dining room and a smaller one, separated by a drink bar and a sushi bar. The place seems cavernous, with its large main dining room and its vaulted ceilings. There are new tables and chairs, carpeting and lighting, and Asian decorative accents. It all has a spare, minimalist feel, but it's not cold. One recent night, half the diners are of Asian descent. The menu reflects the diversity; the dishes are translated into Chinese and Vietnamese. A Cheap Eats disclaimer: Just about everything on the voluminous menu fits our budget of $14 and under -- if you stay away from the house specials. Those steaks and seafood go up to $22.95. We stuck with the rest of the menu, starting with the old standbys to see how they measure up. The scallion pancakes ($2.95) were crisp, with an ample amount of scallions but a tad greasy. Better were the Peking ravioli ($3.95), steamed al dente.
Trying to balance the menu, we ordered some sushi and sashimi (they come a la carte or by the entree). The fish is all fresh and firm. The spring rolls ($3.50) are filled with vermicelli, lettuce, chicken, and shrimp, all of it fresh and tasty, but a little more cilantro and mint would have kicked it up a bit. We did like the hoisin-chili-peanut sauce that accompanied it.
The waitstaff is Asian, and they're happy to steer you toward a specialty. Our waitress recommended the salted and pepper jumbo shrimp ($12.50). The shrimp are cooked with the shell on, which keeps the flavor in, and jalapenos and scallions add to the heat. Here, there are a dozen hot-pot offerings. If you're not a heat freak, try the cooler seafood in birdnest ($12.95), consisting of sauteed seafood with mushrooms, broccoli, and carrots in a "nest" made of fried taro. The crunch plays nicely off the tender veggies and fish.
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