Big Fresh Cafe: The name says it all

June 24, 2004|CHEAP EATS, Globe Staff

Low-carb, no-carb, low-fat, no-fat, high-fat, high-protein, high-fiber -- Karen Masterson has seen countless trendy diet regimens cycle through popular culture, fall out of favor, then cycle through again. The pattern drives her absolutely batty. "I just refuse to enter into that," she says. "I believe so strongly that if you eat whole foods, good grains, lots of fresh vegetables and fruits, and good sources of protein," good health will follow. Amen to that. In a society in which many people know the net carbohydrate content of assorted foods but few know exactly what a carbohydrate is, Masterson is a voice of reason. She sums up her food philosophy in four words: "Eat well, live well." And that's the mantra at Big Fresh Cafe, the good-for-you, environmentally conscious restaurant that Masterson and her husband, Kevin, who owns the Tennessee's barbeque chain, opened last fall.

The small, focused menu at Big Fresh offers a few Middle Eastern foods -- hummus, falafel, tabbouleh -- held over from the restaurant it replaced, Rami's. But its primary focus is on whole grains (brown rice, whole-wheat couscous, wheat noodles), lean proteins (tofu, all-natural chicken, and wild Alaskan salmon), and fresh produce from local farms.

Most of the vegetables come from local growers and organic suppliers whose names will be familiar to anyone who shops at farmers' markets or pick-your-own establishments: Heirloom Harvest in Westborough, Marino Lookout Farm in South Natick, and 21st Century Foods in Jamaica Plain. Sunshine Dairy in Framingham and Land's Sake in Weston may soon join that list. That means Big Fresh's customers get fruits and veggies of top-shelf freshness, including some plucked that very morning.

Many menu items are organic, which means they're produced without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, growth hormones, irradiation, or genetic engineering. The chicken, from Bell & Evans, is raised without antibiotics or growth hormones. The salmon comes from a regulated fishery. No Coke or Pepsi here; the microbrewed soda is from a JP company. And because Masterson -- who has a "passion for causes," as her husband puts it, especially social justice issues -- wants healthful eating to be affordable for the masses and not just an expensive option for affluent consumers, she has labored mightily to keep prices reasonable; the costliest menu item is $8.25.

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