Jackson Hole goes upscale

Condos, spas, restaurants cater to the affluent

February 08, 2004|Bonnie Tsui, Globe Correspondent

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. -- Jackson Hole is undergoing a renaissance apparent in its dramatically shifting landscape. The completion of the 124-room Four Seasons hotel this winter -- with the mountain's first truly slopeside restaurant, views of the snow-clad Tetons, and high-end services such as a ski concierge -- caps a series of recent luxury lodge openings in the newly expanded base area of Teton Village that is bound to bring in a whole different breed of skier.

Celebrated for epic ski terrain, the wild glacial valley known as Jackson Hole for years has attracted daredevil sporting types and year-round ski bums. It was named, appropriately enough, for a 19th-century mountain man and fur trader -- and the ''mountain man" types stuck around. The frontier town of Jackson, about 12 miles from the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort's Teton Village, has a population of just 8,647 and its roots grounded firmly in the Old West tradition. Land development is severely restricted (only 3 percent of land is available for private ownership or development), and environmental consciousness is high. Walk down the main street and you'll see old-fashioned wooden storefronts, boardwalks, and lively Jackson town square. This is a town that every May holds a public auction of elk antlers shed in the National Elk Refuge; proceeds benefit the refuge.

The valley area now gets about 6 million visitors a year, thanks in large part to its proximity to two popular national parks: Grand Teton (less than a mile away) and Yellowstone (45 miles to the north). Many warm-weather visitors stay in the town of Jackson, where thousands of hotel rooms accommodate them. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort itself, however, has had a longtime shortage of on-mountain rooms as well as anything that could be dubbed night life.

With the fresh appearance of several upscale hotels and condo developments in Teton Village (almost doubling capacity to 3,200 beds in the last six years), as well as a cornucopia of spas and restaurants right at the bottom of Jackson Hole's main lifts, the resort now caters to a wider spectrum of snow-based clientele, particularly affluent visitors who, while they like to ski, may not be throwing themselves with a war whoop off every steep cornice. More importantly, they bring their families and spend money on creature comforts.

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