Where Thanksgiving means eating out

November 13, 2003|DINING OUT, Globe Staff

Tradition reigns at Thanksgiving -- the turkey, the stuffing, the pumpkin pie. For many, that tradition has to be carried out at grandma's house or the family equivalent of grandma's.

But many celebrants find it more festive, or at least a change of pace, to let restaurant chefs do the cooking. And more and more restaurants are getting into the Thanksgiving spirit.

Eric Brennan, chef of the Harvest in Harvard Square, can trace his roots right back to Plimoth Plantation. His mother's ancestor, ByGod Eggleston, was in the second wave of colonists, he says. That connection adds to his interest in New England cuisine. "Last year was the first time the Harvest was open on Thanksgiving," Brennan says, "and it went pretty well." So this year, he's planning the classics -- roast turkey with chestnut-cornbread stuffing, maple-sugar baked acorn squash, buttermilk mashed potatoes, and smoked giblet gravy.

He widens the net with such entrees as Scottish salmon with mashed Macomber turnip, and braised venison Swiss steak. A vegetarian option will also be available. Cost will be $55 for three courses; $65 for four. For information, call 617-868-2255.

The holiday season will be bittersweet for the Robert family because it will be the last in Maison Robert in Old City Hall, which will close in February. For this Thanksgiving, chef Ken Duckworth will pull out all the stops with four courses, each with several selections. Some of the dishes are grilled quail with curly endive, quinoa, and pomegranate; lobster sauteed with tomatoes, brandy, and cream, and, of course, roast turkey with apple sage stuffing. Among desserts will be Maison Robert's famous warm upside-down apple tart. Cost will be $75 for adults; $29 for children under 12. Call 617-227-3370.

Other restaurants are shuttered on Turkey Day but offer options for customers. Le Soir in Newton Highlands plans a special prix fixe dinner the night before, Nov. 26. Chef-owner Mark Allen will serve root vegetable soup with lobster; roasted lamb loin with French beans and puree of parsnip, and a pumpkin cheese cake with spiced honey glaze. Cost is $60 each; call 617-965-3100.

At the Fireplace in Brookline's Washington Square busy cooks can pick up an entire Thanksgiving dinner or some of the side dishes the day before to augment the holiday at home. Some of the offerings will be butternut squash soup with spice crabapple; apple and white cheddar tart with red onion jam; cider-glazed spit-roasted turkey, and pumpkin pie with roasted chestnuts. For prices, call 617-975-1900.

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